Powered by 
Simon Thomsen
Tuesday, April 08, 2008
The Kemps of Restaurant Balzac launch another cracking bistro, adding sparkle to life on the northside.
Of all the chefs with expanding empires in Sydney, Melbourne and around the world, Matt Kemp is the one I'd most like to see succeed. If despots cooked like this, I'd be calling for more to rule the planet. Here are two simple reasons to cheer him on: Kemp's food is both utterly delicious and astonishingly good value. I could add it's also occasionally complex yet elegantly simple, enormous fun and demonstrates a wonderful talent for elevating humble ingredients above their status. Consider his ode to pig, a good old-fashioned brawn, aka jellied pig's head, served as a "terrine" ($12/$18). Making it is a two-day labour of love and a reminder of an art that has undeservedly fallen out of fashion. The end result is a handsome tile of lush, lemony jelly encasing chunks of pink, sweet, salty and smoky trotter, hock and cheek, plus finely chopped vegetables. Beside it is a tangy, creamy, finely grated remoulade, with gelatinous and crunchy slivers of crumbed pig's ear balanced on t...
Source: Sydney Morning HeraldFull review on Sydney Morning Herald
Crows Nest, NSW
Crows Nest, NSW
Crows Nest, NSW
Crows Nest, NSW
Crows Nest, NSW
© Copyright News Digital Media • Privacy Policy • Staff Guidelines • Terms & Conditions