DARLINGHURST, NSW
SURRY HILLS, NSW
ROSE BAY, NSW
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Simon Thomsen
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
This restaurant-bar has promise but strives too hard to push into the fine-dining arena.
The bottom of Emmilou's menu thoughtfully advises that "not all ingredients are mentioned, please alert your waiter if you have any religious or dietary requirements". What the menu does mention is pig. A lot of it. Jamon, pork hock, chorizo, wild boar, pork belly. You'll find it in some form in many of the five entrees and five mains from the a la carte menu and in seven of the 16 tapas. As much as I'm a porcine aficionado, even I think it's too much. Sure, it underpins a lot of the Spanish cooking chef Chris Cranswick-Smith is influenced by, but this is pig as stalker, turning up everywhere, often unnecessarily, including in an entree of veal sweetbreads with shredded ham hock, prawns and cauliflower beignets. It's all so artfully arranged around the plate but the end result is like a singles' dating night where none of the ingredients knows how to start a conversation with each other. The dish is symptomatic of Cranswick-Smith's try-too-hard approach, which presents ingredi...
Source: Sydney Morning HeraldFull review on Sydney Morning Herald
Lissa Christopher
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
The most obvious thing the newish tapas bar and restaurant is missing is customers.
Some Sydney bars are like Johnny Depp: handsome and talented, they have broad and enduring appeal. The Victoria Room in Darlinghurst is a Depp-ish establishment. Others are like Sean Penn: talented, a bit nasty, nose and face like an axe jammed in a chunk of driftwood but bewitching nonetheless. The Judgement Bar, upstairs at the Courthouse Hotel in Darlinghurst, is bit of a Penn. Then there are the Brad Pitts: good-looking, talented, everything technically in place but (for my tastes, anyway) missing a certain something. And so we come to Emmilou. The most obvious thing the newish tapas bar and restaurant is missing is customers. The evening I visited - a madly windy Wednesday - my drinking buddy and I were the only ones there between roughly 6.30 and 8.30pm. Ioannis Benardos, Emmilou's adaptable manager, mixologist and waiter, puts the empty tables down to Sydney being "dead every January" but I suspect other factors are also at play. Emmilou opened as recently as October. I...
Source: Sydney Morning HeraldFull review on Sydney Morning Herald
Surry Hills, NSW
Surry Hills, NSW
Surry Hills, NSW
Surry Hills, NSW
Surry Hills, NSW
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