Helen Greenwood, reviewer
Friday, June 20, 2008
This is the source of the pork, run by two young Czech-born couples who've grafted a Hapsburg hunting lodge sensibility onto the late-19th-century space.
Those of us who fancy a bit of porcine action on the plate are always on the lookout for signs of the pig. So when a local tells me about a "Czech restaurant that serves pork knuckle on a board with a knife stuck into it", I'm on the bus to Balmain. More specifically, I'm on my way to the restored Working Men's Institute whose graceful facade stands out in the architectural clutter of Balmain's shopping strip. The institute is an architectural echo of a time when learning was regarded as the key to improving the lives of the working class. Soaring timber ceilings and gothic-like struts dominate the former lecture hall, now La Boheme. This is the source of the pork, run by two young Czech-born couples who've grafted a Hapsburg hunting lodge sensibility onto the late-19th-century space. Their nostalgic style is on the hip side of kitsch: beer barrel lids, high- backed wooden chairs, solid timber tables and a thick, 150-year-old pine bar top. There's also whimsy in theatric...
Source: Sydney Morning HeraldFull review on Sydney Morning Herald
Balmain, NSW
Balmain, NSW
Balmain, NSW
Balmain, NSW
Balmain, NSW
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