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TheAgeBars
Thursday, January 22, 2009
There's a real pleasure in visiting a restaurant that gives people what they want, rather than shoving them towards the emperor's new edible undies.
Instead of camel kebabs, candied barberries, smoked paprika spheres - or whatever tosh the trendies are eating this week - Footscray's first gastro pub serves up steak, chips, burgers and bolognaise with confidence, consistency and flair. The classics are classics for a reason: they're good, when done decently. And here, they're done terrifically well. Take the prawn cocktail. It's a long, long time since I've gazed upon crustaceans in a martini glass, but there they are, a baker's half-dozen, piled on an iceberg lettuce cup without apparent irony. Shelled, topped and tailed, the prawns are firm, juicy and cool, doused in a spicy, creamy dressing made of ketchup, mayonnaise, brandy and Tabasco. I would have called it thousand island dressing, but chef Sean Donovan calls it Marie Rose sauce. Anyway, it was authentically Love Boat.
Source: The AgeFull review on The Age
Ultimate Melbourne
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Award-winning chef Sean Donovan wows with amazing gastro pub fare in a cosy atmosphere.
John Lethlean, Reviewer
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
The beautiful produce is handled with great skill at this real live Australian gastropub.
It is a phenomenon familiar to restaurant critics who are occasionally recognised by chefs or restaurateurs. The "little something extra for you to see". It's not a bribe. In most cases, it's a gesture of hospitality, pride in the product and marketing nous. So what do you do when the "little something extra" consists of a plate of food, a slice of Haute Greasy Spoon, that might make a meal in itself: a fried duck egg; a little potato mashed with spring onion; a little winter salad of bitter leaves and fennel; and a slice of pan-fried black pudding topped with a caramelised apple ring and grilled kaiserfleisch, all dressed down in a dark, fruity sauce spiked with calvados? First reaction: horror. After all, it follows a few oysters with baguette and a bowl of soup, and precedes a fish and, if everything goes to plan, a bit of dessert. Second reaction: my goodness, this is fantastic.
Source: The AgeFull review on The Age
Footscray, VIC
Footscray, VIC
Footscray, VIC
Docklands, VIC
Footscray, VIC
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