LOWER PLENTY, VIC
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John Lethlean, Reviewer
Monday, April 09, 2007
It's hard to see where this place fits into the Melbourne restaurant landscape.
THROUGH rain spattered windscreen, the first thing we see from a distance is the lights; lurid, piercingly blue fairy lights, dangling like a luminous cobalt fly screen outside Tao's driveway, breaking up the night-time nothingness that is Bulleen Road. It's an Oregon chalet-like structure that was, for nearly 15 years, Bamboo Terrace, but originally designed as some kind of Tyrolean restaurant folly in the 1960s. It's something of a local icon. Out here, restaurants have their own car parks - a nice touch - so dashing in the drizzle is but a short cardiovascular exercise that is over so fast we almost - but not quite - miss the very, very green synthetic grass at the front door. In we go. Tao's offers itself to the dining public of Melbourne as the latest link in a small chain doing modern Pacific cuisine. There is Taiwan, Singapore and now Melbourne Tao's, according to the place-mat at our large, comfortable table. The menu is in two languages, English and Mandarin; the staf...
Source: The AgeFull review on The Age
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