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Dani Valent
Monday, March 05, 2007
A solid, dependable, modern Melbourne reinterpretation of the Greek tavern.
HUNGOVER in Canberra airport, wondering if I should be standing under the baggage sign that said "fragile and oversized", it hit me. It's been at least two weeks since I made a sweeping, grandiose and probably unfounded statement about food in Melbourne. So here goes - Forget the pig . . . 2007 will be the year of the octopus. As I walk into Trapezi, a long flappy tentacle is slapped down on the grill with a suitable fizzing and the unmistakable smell of Henry getting a deep, dark tan. It immediately makes me think of impossibly blue skies, the domes of Cycladian churches and old Greek fishermen that look like walnuts wearing jumpers and wellies. It is an unmistakable fact that in the space of a week I've been confronted with octopus four times - and damn if it isn't the most meatily delicious thing to ever come out from between the rocks. At Trapezi it comes pickled, not too chewy and perfect with a bottle of Mythos, the Greek beer, or grill-blackened, chunky and demanding a ...
Source: The AgeFull review on The Age
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